Showing posts with label Simplicity. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Simplicity. Show all posts

Wednesday, 1 April 2015

1950's Cropped Blouse - Simplicity 2470



Pattern Make: Simplicity
Pattern Number: 2470
Year of Publication: 1958
Size: 12 Teen
Type of Garment: Jr. Misses' and Teen Age Blouse
Suggested Materials: - All views in: Cottons, broadcloth, flannelette, polished cotton, chambray, linen, rayon, silks, blends.
Suggested Notions: -  Blouse View 1, 2 and 3: 2 spools of thread. View 1: 9 buttons. View 2 and 3: 6 buttons.




Briefly describe your garment: Two types of blouses available in this pattern; the basic foundation of this pattern is a button down blouse with darts, a yoke, a decorative box pleat and detachable collar (with a point at the center back). You can complete Version 1 or 2 which is essentially the same; it's a regular sized blouse with fitted darts and uses long or short sleeves, with the collar (detachable or not). Version 3 is cropped and gathered at the waist and features a button tab on the waistband. I chose Version 3.

What materials were used in the creation of this garment? Stash fabric, of course, because it's springtime and I need to do some spring cleaning! I used a green cotton cherry print. It's a very lightweight fabric and features a busy print, which is why I felt it would work well as a blouse. For the collar I used stash white cotton broadcloth. I also used a lightweight fusible interfacing for the collar and to stabilize the buttonholes. The interfacing is not necessary for this pattern, it's not recommended at all in the instructions. I only used it because my contrasting collar fabric was so lightweight that you could see every detail of the seams! The interfacing helped to eliminate that problem but it also made the collar a little stiff (this might be fixed after a few washes). I think it would be better if you used a cotton that isn't too lightweight for this project so that you don't have to use interfacing.

Did you make any alterations to this pattern
? Yes, this is the first time I tried to alter a pattern prior to the muslin. I followed Nancy Zieman's "fitting finesse" which is where you adjust the pattern in increments by adding to the side seams and pivoting the pattern pieces. She also refers to this as "pattern fitting with confidence"; you can find it on Youtube.

I added approx. 1/2" to the bustline and 3/8" to the waistline of each seam. I dropped the bust dart because I discovered in the muslin fitting that it sat 1 1/2" too high and was 1 1/4" too short - this is to be expected with a junior/teen pattern. Although Nancy's fitting suggestions did help the fit in my waist and bust, the back was far too long. She recommends in her book that I add one inch difference to the back because of the comparison between my measurements and the pattern; I thought that seemed odd so I decided against it. I'm glad I did because the back proved to be too long anyways (I have this problem sometimes with patterns). In the future I plan on taking in less than an inch on the back piece by the yoke because otherwise the back sags a little. Also, since I made adjustments to the bust I think it effected the armscye because the facing didn't sit properly. I ended up finishing the armholes with home-made bias tape and catch stitched them into place.

Were the instructions well written and easy to follow? Everything was easy to follow except for the application of the collar, that was pretty bad. The diagram was clustered and not well done and the directions were somewhat muddled. I've applied a collar once before and felt that this pattern did not do a good job of explaining it, it made it more complicated than necessary. It does do it correctly it's just worded poorly and I'm sure a beginner would feel confused with this one. It also doesn't help that the blouse facing is just slightly longer than what I'm used to; normally I find it will line up with the shoulder seam but in this case it was a centimeter longer and was overlapping the shoulder seam (even after taking in the 1/4" hem). The diagram showed it as being exactly like that, so it's not a pattern piece error, it's literally over-sized for no good reason at all...

Why did you use this pattern? It's cute, I got it a few weeks ago and instantly fell in love with it for its simplistic design. I have a handful of blouse patterns and this one is the nicest looking out of all of them, so I figured what the hell, I'll give it a try. I love creating separates and I felt that this pattern could help build my wardrobe.





Are you happy with the final result? Sort of. The fit is okay, I messed up and forgot to add the additional length to the waistband that I had altered in the bodice. It sits a little snug at the waistline but it's not impossible to live with. I think my choice in fabric resulted in the blouse sitting kind of funny. It was advertised as children's spring cotton but I wonder if it's some kind of quilting cotton because it doesn't drape well (it's sort of frumpy). I also don't like how the back sags but as I mentioned above that could be fixed in the future. My biggest beef with this design is the placket: the placement of the buttons is off and the pattern does not use enough of them! It results in puckering (with peek-a-boobs) and the top button doesn't sit right. This pattern should use eight buttons total instead of six (four main buttons and two on the tab) and possibly use interfacing.

Overall, it's not terrible a looking blouse. It will make a nice lightweight top for warmer weather. I can always unbutton the top button since I don't like it so much. There's nothing I can do about the back issue unless I want to open up my armholes and right now I am not in the mood (I must have seam ripped those bloody things eight times over). I was going to sew this again soon but I think I'll wrap it back up and try something different. It's just too much of a headache right now.

Would you recommend this pattern to others and if so, what skill level? 
As I mentioned above, the instructions for the collar are kind of sketchy; I wouldn't recommend this project for a beginner. If you already have a handful of sewing projects under your belt then I don't think it would be too difficult for you to try this pattern. If you get stuck on the collar just search for "how to set a collar" on Youtube or the like. I've only ever made two 1950's blouses, and this one was by far the nicer looking blouse, but both had fit issues. You can easily pick this pattern up on Etsy or Ebay, I've seen it being sold at reasonable prices.

Would you sew this garment again? I might make this again using Version 2 out of another lightweight printed cotton. I'm not sure I'll ever make this sleeveless or using Version 3 again, it just had so many problems. I'll likely stash it and bring it out again in a month or so.


Happy sewing! ♥

Saturday, 7 June 2014

Modern Day Twist: Simplicity 4529


Upcycled Floral Pencil Skirt

Recently I reviewed Simplicity 4529, a pencil skirt from the 1960's. I praised this pattern before and after using it once more to create this floral pencil skirt, I'm praising it again! It is a super easy sewing project. In this case, I used material from a dress that I had purchased from Pacific Mall in Markham, ON. If you've never been to Pacific Mall it's a mall that deals specifically with Asian goods. If you're an anime fan or like Korean street fashion then this place would be your paradise! At the time I bought the dress I was making the transition into wearing more girly clothing. When I graduated high school I dropped a lot of weight but still struggled with being comfortable with my body. When I was shopping at the mall I had this cute little sales associate sucker me into buying a twenty dollar sun dress. I tried it on but felt it was somewhat on the smaller side. Well, as is the reality of shopping at Pacific Mall, their stuff is pretty much always on the XS side. I don't think I've ever seen anything for a large or plus sized person. I bought the dress hoping that it wasn't as short as I thought it was, but I never felt all that comfortable in it. Even when I was careful enough to crouch instead of bend over, I always felt like my butt was showing. 

I decided earlier in the year that I would make something else out of it so I threw it into my UFO bin. A few days ago the temperature was climbing and I realized just how badly I need more skirts, dresses and shorts. I decided that the old baby doll dress would be very easily converted into a skirt. I seam ripped the dress and laid the pieces flat. As I mentioned in my previous review, this pattern uses one main pattern piece for the skirt. Instead of side seams it uses darts to create shape. Well, this would not work on my dress due to the fact that the dress consisted of front and back pieces. I had to redraw the pattern so there would be two back pieces and one front (like most pencil skirt patterns). I cut them out and assembled them, I was very pleased that the skirt fit well and looked good. I didn't have enough material to create the waistband so I used some hot pink bias binding instead. I also made use of a pink metal zipper that I picked up for 10¢ at a thrift store, and it looks great (photo below). It's shorter than the original pattern which is much more comfortable for casual wear. Unfortunately the fabric wrinkles like nobody's business, but I don't think it shows in person as much as it does in photos. What's important is that I have a new skirt to wear in this humid thirty degree weather.

I'm very pleased with the final product. I love to upcycle old clothes! And with this pattern it's so easy. If you can find a copy of Simplicity 4529 I strongly recommend you purchase it. : )

Happy sewing! ♥



Monday, 19 May 2014

Pattern Review: Simplicity 4529




Pattern Make: Simplicity
Pattern Number: 4529
Year of Publication: 1962
Size: 28" waist with 38" hip
Type of Garment: Misses' Skirts in Proportioned Sizes
Suggested Materials: - Both views: Cottons and blends; cotton crepe, duck denim, sailcloth, homespun, broadcloth, pique, cotton satin, poplin. Linen. Rayons, silks, synthetics; shantung, silk linen. Wools and blends; flannel, worsteds, knits.
Suggested Notions: - View 1, 2 and 3: Thread, 9" skirt type zipper. View 1: One 3/4" button. View 2: Belt.



Briefly describe your garment: It is a pencil skirt from the early sixties. It features a kick pleat at the back center seam and darts at the waistline and sides. I chose the plain skirt without the button tab or belt carriers. The pattern provides three different "sizes" to choose from. It only comes in one waist and hip measurement, of course, but it gives options for different heights: Small 5'3" and under, Medium 5'4" to 5'6" and Tall 5'7" and over. There is no real difference between the sizes other than length, really you could cut the tallest and adjust the hem but the sizing makes it easier.

What materials were used in the creation of this garment? That's a good question! This is another stash project for me. I believe the fabric is a poly-spandex blend and it was a dream to sew with.

Did you make any alterations to this pattern
? Yes. My waist measurement is 26" not 28" so I took the skirt in slightly to accommodate my measurements. I also made the side darts slightly longer than marked. It fit rather loosely in my hip area and I wanted to correct this. I also did not sew the hem as directed in the instructions, however, I don't consider that an alteration, just a personal preference.

Were the instructions well written and easy to follow? Fairly well written and easy to follow. The diagrams were alright and there was one step I had to reread once or twice. The zipper installation was a dream and I will be using that technique on all my skirts from now on.

Why did you use this pattern? I liked that the skirt is made from one solid piece (plus waistband and button tab or belt carriers). I have never seen that done before. I wondered how it could possibly have shape without side seams but it does work!

Are you happy with the final result? It is very 1960's and by that I mean it has that kind of bubble hips effect, where everything from the waist down is super puffy. I made my skirt a little more modern in appearance by elongating my side darts. I'm happy with how it looks. :)

Would you recommend this pattern to others and if so, what skill level? 
This is a very easy skirt to sew! I would recommend it to beginners. It doesn't require a lot of material at all, which is awesome. You could easily get this done in a day or maybe a few hours, depending on your skill level.

Would you sew this garment again? Yes, the skirt I made is rather "dressy", I consider it business attire. I may try to sew this pattern again sometime using a more casual printed fabric.


Monday, 5 May 2014

Sew For Victory: The Finished Blouse

Complete 1940's Blouse using Simplicity 3715

Sew For Victory - The Final Results

Well there is good news and bad news. Allow me to start with the good news, I have completed the blouse for submission in the sew along. It is very pretty. It's a chiffon blouse with a detachable collar. What's the bad news? After attaching the sleeves and the shoulder pads it doesn't fit comfortably any more. It creates too much friction under my armpits (and although chiffon is usually fun to touch it can get pretty irritating when rubbing against the skin). I suppose if I make this pattern again I'll be making an alteration in the back, near as I can tell there isn't enough room across the back which is causing the pull beneath the armpits. It's my fault, I didn't make a solid muslin to detect fit issues.

There is hope, mind you. I will be removing the sleeves and binding the armholes, turning it into a sleeveless blouse. I will remove the shoulder pads too, so it will look a bit "slouchy" but I rather like it that way. I also plan on sewing a detachable collar out of satin, because the chiffon collar doesn't sit correctly and looks rather plain when paired with my snazzy little buttons.

I put a lot of work into this project and aside from fit and design issues I'm happy with the results. I learned new tricks and I'm not as terrified of chiffon as I used to be! I'll be posting a review on this pattern as well as sharing my new knowledge of chiffon on my new blog, which I will launch within the next day. I hope everyone had fun during this sew along! :)

Happy sewing. ♥

French Seams, Lace Hem and Chiffon Bias Binding