Tuesday, 10 March 2015

Makeup by the Decade: The Roaring 20's


Makeup trends of the 1920's


Rather than reiterate what you can already find on the subject of 1920's makeup, I figured I would write about my interpretations and understanding of the makeup from that era.

It sounds funny but when I think of 1920's fashion, I picture a little girl whose gotten into her mother's clothes and makeup and worn too much of it. I think it's the perfect analogy for this decade in makeup; everything was worn in excess. Mascara was hot on the scene, blush was saturated, and eyebrows and lips were highly exaggerated. Nowadays we would look at wearing this much makeup as garish or amateurish, but if you're looking to sport a 1920's look I don't think you have to cake your makeup on in order to be successful.

One of the things you should do when trying to recreate a vintage look is to consider what was available at the time; what was new or on trend at the time in colours, products and styles? For the 1920's we're aware that certain products were popular: mascara was a sure choice for accenting kholed eyes; on trend lip colours were reds and plums; and eyebrow and lip shapes were over-exaggerated.

Eyebrows

I believe the eyebrows are what make the 1920's look. If you mess them up you'll end up either looking like a clown or from a different decade altogether! People often assume that in order to achieve a 1920's look you need thin eyebrows but this isn't the case. If you look at photographs from the 20's you will find women with thick natural eyebrows alongside those with pencil thin, drawn on eyebrows. The real defining element of the 20's eyebrow is not necessarily the thickness but the overall shape. If you study the images presented here you will see eyebrows from this time rarely feature a well defined arch, instead eyebrows are rounded. Also, they are usually elongated and shifted, sloping downward. I believe this was done in order to achieve a softer and rounded appearance of the face (as much of the makeup from this decade demonstrates). By rounding the eyebrows and drawing them closer to the eye, it creates a kind of sympathetic look. I've often felt the women from this decade look like cherubs and perhaps that was the intention. Aside from those who chose to curve and slope their eyebrows, there were also women who chose to shape their eyebrows in a more straight and severe looking fashion. This is notable in a few iconic looks, at times seen in images of Theda Bara or Clara Bow (see below).

Lips

The second most important element in achieving a 1920's look are the lips. Like the eyebrows, the shape of the lips were highly exaggerated. They were made to appear smaller with a well defined "cupid's bow" (the bow of the lip). For women with fuller lips this was achieved by drawing within the lip line, for women with thinner lips the cupid's bow may have been defined outside of the lip line (as shown in the illustration above **please forgive my wonky drawings). Look at the photos and advertisements of women from this era and you will see the different and unusual shapes used to define the bow of the lip. Lipstick colours that were popular at this time were in dark or bold shades of red, brown, orange and plum.

Eyes

When you think of eye makeup from the 1920's, you may picture the dark and sultry kohled eyes of Theda Bara. This is the most commonly referenced makeup style of the 20's and although I acknowledge that it has it's place (especially given the heightened interest in Egyptian culture during the 20's), I feel it's a tad overdone and really ought to be used for an evening look. If you look through the various promotional photographs or illustrated advertisements, you'll probably notice that not every girl had dark kohled eyes. Beyond your basic black, there were also shades of brown, blue and even gold was being used. You don't have to cake your eyelid in black shadow to invoke the roaring 20's, as I mentioned before, it's more about the shapes and application of the makeup that make the look. My suggestion for achieving a 20's daytime look is to use softer shades or neutral eye-shadows like peach, gold, sage or taupe. Accent them with a bit of eyeliner close to the lash line on the bottom and upper lids (or leave the lower lid out and apply mascara to the bottom lashes). Apply mascara liberally!


Face

Use of blush was also popular at this time but it was applied to the apple of the cheeks, it was not used to contour but to exaggerate roundness. It was applied generously in shades of orange, pink or red. I've ready varying opinions, but it seems foundation for the most part was intended to look warm and natural.


Conclusion

If you get the shapes and shades down right you can easily create a 1920's makeup. This look is really fun and unusual and can change your appearance dramatically. If you're curious to see what I mean, look at images of Joan Crawford from the 1920's and then those of her from the late 30's or 40's - I had to do a double take! It almost looks like two different people. Keep that in mind if you ever plan on disguising yourself for whatever reason. ; )

Next Month: The Dirty 30's

Best wishes! ♥

Thursday, 12 February 2015

Movie Review: The Cat and the Canary 1939


Title: The Cat and the Canary
Year: 1939
Distributed by: Paramount Pictures
Directed by: Elliot Nugent
Starring: Bobe Hope, Paulette Goodard, Gale Sondergaard, et al.
Costume Design by: Edith Head
Genre:  Comedy, Horror


It's been awhile since I've reviewed a movie. It's not that I haven't seen any. I've watched plenty of movies over the last couple of months, and I've planned on writing reviews for them, I've just never gotten around to doing them. I either lose track of time or I have to prioritize more important things. I've really wanted to talk about at least one horror film before the winter ends, with good reason; winter is the most dreary and depressing time of year for me. I suffer from SAD (Seasonal Affective Disorder) which means I get drowsy, irritable and unhappy during the winter months. This year I've been very fortunate because we've had plenty of natural sunshine flowing through our windows and brightening up the house, but then I look down and see all that white fluff and it's depressing. What I like to do during these times is watch horror films. It seems odd, but I feel it's an appropriate winter pastime. It helps me to concentrate on something when I struggle with sad feelings and it's perfect for those dark, silent nights. I truly feel that winter enhances the viewing experience. There is definitely a parallel between the atmospheric tension of an old black and white horror film, and the anxiety that I feel about a never ending black and white winter. Funny, but true.

I happen to own a handful of films on DVD but I acquire the majority of what I watch through downloads. I've had The Cat and the Canary sitting on my computer since October! I originally intended to watch it around Halloween, but the holidays got so hectic that I kept putting it off and eventually forgot about it entirely. It wasn't until recently that I rediscovered it. I had just watched One Body Too Many; an apparent spoof based off The Cat and the Canary - I'm merely speculating here, but the former film does utilize the name of the deceased relative, "Cyrus", as well as the exact same portrait of him. At first I wasn't sure if OBTM was intended to be something of a remake. Rehashing storylines was commonplace back then as films would only show in theaters for so long, viewing times were limited, so it would make sense if OBTM was an attempt to cash in on The Cat and the Canary's success. But the more I think about it the more it seems OBTM is just paying homage to The Cat and the Canary. Either way, the timing is awfully ironic, I didn't plan to watch both films together, nor did I know of any connection between the two!

Speaking of remakes, The Cat and the Canary (1939) is a remake of The Cat and the Canary (1927), which is based off of the play of the same name!



The Plot

The film is set in the Louisiana bayous at the residence of Cyrus Norman, a millionaire who died ten years prior and whose will is now going into effect. Mr. Norman's mansion is situated in a remote location, his beneficiaries must travel via an alligator infested swamp just to get there (and there's no going back either, not until morning). The guests clearly feel uneasy at the prospect of staying in the mansion; it's old and creepy, and the caretaker, Miss Lu (Gale Sondergaard), is a bizarre woman who claims to be in tune with the other world. Intent on getting things over with, the guests assemble in the living area and are told the details of the will. The potential heirs are Aunt Susan (Elizabeth Pattesrson), Cicily (Nydia Westman), Fred (John Beal), Charles (Douglass Montgomery), Wally (Bob Hope) and Joyce (Paulette Goodard) - Norman's only surviving blood relative. Not surprisingly, Joyce is the sole beneficiary to Norman's will. It's indicated that should Joyce fall mad within thirty days (madness being an inherent problem in the Norman bloodline) then the inheritance shall be awarded to the next heir. This puts her at considerable risk of any wrong doing from the other potential heirs, who feel bitter sweetly about Joyce's inheritance. It's made all the more complicated by a disturbing letter given to Joyce by Miss Lu, that implies Joyce's good fortune will be short lived. Not to mention that there's also an escaped mad man loose in the bayou who looks like a human cat...

Everyone acts concerned for Joyce's well being, but it's not clear if they are being truthful or if they're after her fortune (and the hidden treasure, naturally). Of all the guests, Wally, Joyce's childhood friend and the film's comic relief, appears to be the most genuine of the men. This is kind of a given as much of the story takes place around the two of them. This is your archetypal haunted mansion kind of film; there's flashing lights, ghostly noises, hidden rooms and trapped doors, being watched, being stalked, murder, mayhem, mystery, so on and so forth. It's a good film and I don't want to give too much away, so go ahead and watch it.

How would you rate this film? ★★★★ - I loved it!

What did you like about the movie? I like a lot about this movie. First off, the atmosphere was stellar. They did a really good job of set design, it all felt very immersive, like you felt as though you were actually there. When Joyce and Wally go outside, you can almost feel the mugginess of a swampy summer night. I loved the flickering lights and the sounds, I wouldn't say I felt scared, not in the way that we feel scared with horror films today. Instead, I would more describe the feeling of thrill when watching this film. For an older film that in itself is a hell of an accomplishment. To feel thrill at the thought of a spooky mansion, or when Joyce is being violently perused by something lurking in the dark, it's just great. Beyond the atmosphere I found the characters to be fairly interesting, too. Aside from the protagonist, I enjoyed Miss Lu. Gale Sondergaard did an immacualte job of playing a haunting and mystical care taker. I think she was around forty when the film came out, but she was just gorgeous. I found that refreshing. Ordinarily when we see these kinds of murder mystery/haunted house films, there's usually a crochety woman but she's terribly old so we sort of excuse her behavior. But when the woman is younger, and very pretty, it's much more alluring. You wonder why she's so mysterious and withdrawn, and you get the feeling she has a tremendous wisdom about the house and other worldly things.

The genre for this film is a horror comedy, and I think that was entirely successful. Bob Hope was a powerful comedic presence at the time and he really did an excellent job in this film. I felt Westman was good during her parts as well, but unfortunately you don't hear as much from her. Unlike other horror films that attempt to incorporate a comedic element, this film didn't let it get in the way of the thrill, it seemed like the timing was well planned. For example, Hope might dish out a handful of puns and then leave the room, then something suspenseful would take place, and he might joke afterward to take the edge off, but it never interrupted what would otherwise be a scary moment, it just flowed right.

What did you dislike? It's hard to say I dislike something about a movie that I awarded a five star rating. I rarely give a rating that high. I only did it because I felt that in comparison to other films of that time, this film stands out. I would put it with the Universal monster films, and let's be honest, some of those really weren't that great, but it is ranking it quite highly. Although there are a few things I would have liked to see improved, I don't think they hurt the film in any way. What I would have liked to see is more time with the other guests, including Miss Lu. It seemed like some of the characters was seriously underutilized.

There were limited interactions with the group as a whole, it was usually Joyce on her own and then one person would interact with her at a time. This made it so other characters didn't get as much screen time. I felt that if they were given more lines and more depth it could have created greater tension within the group and heightened the suspense. I found that half way through I really didn't consider Cicily or Aunt Susan as a threat and they were shown so infrequently that they might as well have not even existed. The same for Fred, Joyce's other suitor, who happens to be a crusty guy that seems too easily defeated. He competes for her affection against Charles but gives up way too easily. You just want them to break into a fight over her but it never happens. I wanted Aunt Susan to be more consumed by greed so that she could be a potential killer. I wanted more lines from Cicily because she's also comic relief and had a decent comedic chemistry with Wally. The film did have me guessing, but honestly only between like three people and there were a lot more characters in this movie than just that.




Who was your favorite character? Bob Hope's character, Wally. And that's only if I had to choose one, but he certainly stands out to me. I might be a bit biased though, as he reminds me of my fiancé. He has excellent timing with his lines and they really make me laugh, just in his delivery. He's kind of cocky and silly, but I also thought he was hot when he was wooing Joyce. I'm a sucker for being called "baby".

How did you feel about the costume designs? Edith Head was the costume designer for this film, and if you know me you're already aware that I adore her designs. The story takes place over the course of a single night, so there's not much in the way of wardrobe. Joyce has three cute dresses, she starts off with this adorable little gingham number, which I was eyeballing the entire time. The film ends with her in another simple dress, this time floral, but still cute. The real gem, is the dress she's wearing at the height of the film's suspense. I absolutely gush over it. It's a stunning white gown. I couldn't find many stills of it, but she's wearing it in the photo below. It has a kind of beaded/sequined knotted motif on the front yoke. It's gathered near the collar bone and has a plunging neckline. She also wears this adorable little brooch with it.

How many movies are there from this time where the woman in danger is wearing a beautiful white gown? I'm pretty sure White Zombie had it, I know I walked with a Zombie had it, and I know it makes me think of the Bride of Frankenstein. Keep that in mind if you ever plan on making a horror film: give the female lead a sexy, virginal white gown.



Friday, 24 October 2014

Update!



A Picture Heavy Update for Fall

I feel bad for pretty much neglecting this blog but because so many of my sewing projects right now are alternative, Bien Aimée is getting all the attention. I do have some vintage sewing projects planned for the future, in particular I'd like to finish the blouse top that I wanted to do back in August. I also want something special for Christmas as this is me and my fiancé's first Christmas while living together and I want it to be special. So there are vintage things to look forward to. I'm also going to do a vintage Halloween post next week for Halloween. If you're a Halloween fanatic like me (if you aren't already following Bien-Aimée) I have a series called Frightful Fridays that you might want to check out. I even included a simple pirate costume tutorial!

As for vintage finds, I didn't think this was worth posting an entire Thirft Store Score post for, but I purchased two brightly coloured petticoats for five dollars each! That's a real score. The pink one is photographed in the main photo for this post. I normally don't like petticoats sticking out from underneath dresses, but in this case it looks HOT! The other petticoat is a very light cyan blue.

So just to give a simple update, I've been enjoying the fall weather. My fiancé and I went on vacation on Thanksgiving weekend and I loved it. The foliage was beautiful. I don't have the pictures from my vacation with me but I do have some pictures we took on our walk the other day. So if you're wondering what's going on in sunny Southern Ontario, this is what it looks like.







I really hope I can one day get a DSLR because the camera on my phone has this obnoxious tendency to over-saturate the crap out of things! I'm proficient in Photoshop now and I still can't save these pictures from being super saturated. It doesn't seem to know what green is... or blue. It can be really frustrating. None the less, the foliage here is gorgeous! You can click the images to enlarge them.

Other than that, I love my job and I'm still seeking additional employment. I'm told my hours will pick up for the holiday season, which is exciting news. I've also had time to relax and enjoy being with my fiancé, which has been a blessing. I went fishing and caught one bass and one sunfish. I haven't done much crafting but really hope to get into that soon. I missed the boat on Halloween crafting but I think I'll start the Christmas projects as soon as November hits.

I hope you're all having a lovely fall! What have you been up to?

Happy Sewing ♥