Monday, 19 May 2014

Pattern Review: Simplicity 4529

Pattern Make: Simplicity
Pattern Number: 4529
Year of Publication: 1962
Size: 28" waist with 38" hip
Type of Garment: Misses' Skirts in Proportioned Sizes
Suggested Materials: - Both views: Cottons and blends; cotton crepe, duck denim, sailcloth, homespun, broadcloth, pique, cotton satin, poplin. Linen. Rayons, silks, synthetics; shantung, silk linen. Wools and blends; flannel, worsteds, knits.
Suggested Notions: - View 1, 2 and 3: Thread, 9" skirt type zipper. View 1: One 3/4" button. View 2: Belt.

Briefly describe your garment: It is a pencil skirt from the early sixties. It features a kick pleat at the back center seam and darts at the waistline and sides. I chose the plain skirt without the button tab or belt carriers. The pattern provides three different "sizes" to choose from. It only comes in one waist and hip measurement, of course, but it gives options for different heights: Small 5'3" and under, Medium 5'4" to 5'6" and Tall 5'7" and over. There is no real difference between the sizes other than length, really you could cut the tallest and adjust the hem but the sizing makes it easier.

What materials were used in the creation of this garment? That's a good question! This is another stash project for me. I believe the fabric is a poly-spandex blend and it was a dream to sew with.

Did you make any alterations to this pattern
? Yes. My waist measurement is 26" not 28" so I took the skirt in slightly to accommodate my measurements. I also made the side darts slightly longer than marked. It fit rather loosely in my hip area and I wanted to correct this. I also did not sew the hem as directed in the instructions, however, I don't consider that an alteration, just a personal preference.

Were the instructions well written and easy to follow? Fairly well written and easy to follow. The diagrams were alright and there was one step I had to reread once or twice. The zipper installation was a dream and I will be using that technique on all my skirts from now on.

Why did you use this pattern? I liked that the skirt is made from one solid piece (plus waistband and button tab or belt carriers). I have never seen that done before. I wondered how it could possibly have shape without side seams but it does work!

Are you happy with the final result? It is very 1960's and by that I mean it has that kind of bubble hips effect, where everything from the waist down is super puffy. I made my skirt a little more modern in appearance by elongating my side darts. I'm happy with how it looks. :)

Would you recommend this pattern to others and if so, what skill level? 
This is a very easy skirt to sew! I would recommend it to beginners. It doesn't require a lot of material at all, which is awesome. You could easily get this done in a day or maybe a few hours, depending on your skill level.

Would you sew this garment again? Yes, the skirt I made is rather "dressy", I consider it business attire. I may try to sew this pattern again sometime using a more casual printed fabric.

Monday, 5 May 2014

Sew For Victory: The Finished Blouse

Complete 1940's Blouse using Simplicity 3715

Sew For Victory - The Final Results

Well there is good news and bad news. Allow me to start with the good news, I have completed the blouse for submission in the sew along. It is very pretty. It's a chiffon blouse with a detachable collar. What's the bad news? After attaching the sleeves and the shoulder pads it doesn't fit comfortably any more. It creates too much friction under my armpits (and although chiffon is usually fun to touch it can get pretty irritating when rubbing against the skin). I suppose if I make this pattern again I'll be making an alteration in the back, near as I can tell there isn't enough room across the back which is causing the pull beneath the armpits. It's my fault, I didn't make a solid muslin to detect fit issues.

There is hope, mind you. I will be removing the sleeves and binding the armholes, turning it into a sleeveless blouse. I will remove the shoulder pads too, so it will look a bit "slouchy" but I rather like it that way. I also plan on sewing a detachable collar out of satin, because the chiffon collar doesn't sit correctly and looks rather plain when paired with my snazzy little buttons.

I put a lot of work into this project and aside from fit and design issues I'm happy with the results. I learned new tricks and I'm not as terrified of chiffon as I used to be! I'll be posting a review on this pattern as well as sharing my new knowledge of chiffon on my new blog, which I will launch within the next day. I hope everyone had fun during this sew along! :)

Happy sewing. ♥

French Seams, Lace Hem and Chiffon Bias Binding